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Flavors Moment: Brandon Dreaden

Chef Brandon Dreaden, a semifinalist for Best Chef: Mountain from the James Beard Foundation.
Ember
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Chef Brandon Dreaden working at Ember in Hamilton, Montana

The James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards announced, at the end of January, the semifinalists for culinary excellence. Chef Brandon Dreaden made the list as a semifinalist for Best Chef: Mountain for his restaurant Ember in Hamilton, Montana.

Stella Fong, host of Flavors Under the Big Sky talks to Chef Brandon.

Stella Fong:
In the heart of the Bitterroot Valley, Brandon Dreaden is changing the culinary scene in the restaurant he owns with his wife Christina. Ember, located in downtown Hamilton, is a wood fired progressive American Restaurant focusing on featuring local ingredients.

Brandon Dreaden:
I wanted to do what Thomas Keller did to Napa Valley back in the early ‘90s.

Stella Fong:
And how is Chef Brandon accomplishing this here under the Big Sky?

Brandon Dreaden:
You put a fork in the ground and you say ‘Okay, I want to represent Bitterroot Valley, Montana,’ and it has been an uphill battle but the James Beard Nomination and just being recognized with a ton of eyeballs on Hamilton, Montana not only drives business to downtown Hamilton but it also tells people ‘Oh my god, there’s a restaurant worth going to here in the sticks.’

Stella Fong:
Chef Brandon understands and appreciates the bounty that is found here.
Brandon Dreaden:
The Hamilton Farmers’ Market blew me away it’s, if not equal or better than what you see in Santa Monica Farmers’ Market. It’s just more microclimate, so you don’t get asparagus all year long. You don’t get strawberries all year long.

Stella Fong:
Not only was Chef Brandon surprised that local restaurants were not serving anything from the farmers’ market, but he was also taken aback when eating at a local steakhouse.

Brandon Dreaden:
So you don’t have any local beef, there’s so much local beef, but you don’t have any local beef on the menu. Alright, I’ve got to change that.

Stella Fong:
And how did Chef make that change?

Brandon Dreaden:
I met with a local rancher, local farmers and I’ve been trying to develop these relationships and it doesn’t happen overnight. It takes years.

Stella Fong:
All his hard work and diligence may be paying off.

Brandon Dreaden:
This year is going to be the first year to finally where the ranchers and farmers are prioritizing my requests first. Where in the first year like whatever. I’m just going to sell what I have at the farmers’ market and I am not even interested.

Stella Fong:
So how did Chef convince the producers to change their minds?

Brandon Dreaden:
If you grow this lettuce from me I will purchase the whole crop. I’ve really been doing the best that I can to try to develop these relationships with their ranchers and farmers.

Stella Fong:
So how is Chef Brandon Dreaden going to get the word out about the flavors being created in his town of 8000 people?

Brandon Dreaden:
There’s only so many people you can feed and cater to in Hamilton, Montana. The internet is undefeated as far as reach.

Stella Fong:
Chef Brandon knew that social media was going to allow him to reach worlds beyond the heart of the Bitterroot Valley when Ember opened in 2022.
Brandon Dreaden:
So basically, when we opened the restaurant, I put in the pro forma that I wanted a videographer. It’s really important that we document the process.

Stella Fong:
To accomplish documenting that process,

Brandon Dreaden:
So, I hired somebody that not only could cook but could prep work but also was an entry level videographer to follow me around with a camera, really focusing on creating polished content with recipes.

Stella Fong:
And those recipes show thousands of followers how to make Chicken Pot Pie, Sourdough bread, Ember carrots and pancetta wrapped pheasant and so much more. These videos have not only put light on Ember and Chef Brandon

Brandon Dreaden:
With eating at Ember, you’re not just supporting me and the staff that comes here every day, you’re also putting the money right back into the community. Lifeline Dairy, Western Montana Growers Coop. This puts money right back into the community instead of importing things from the outside which we have to sometimes.

Stella Fong:But most times, Chef Brandon Dreaden endeavors to highlight the efforts of local producers and one of the reasons why he is a semifinalists from the James Beard Foundation for Best Chef: Mountain.

Brandon Dreaden:
For me just to be nominated year one of trying to make an effort, like it really is very humbling.

Stella Fong:
Many congratulations to Chef Brandon Dreaden for being a semifinalist for Best Chef: Mountain from the James Beard Foundation.

Stella is the host of YPR's Flavors Under the Big Sky: Celebrating the Bounty of the Region, as well as the author of the books Historic Restaurants of Billings and Billings Food and the cookbook Flavors Under the Big Sky.